Saturday, August 07, 2010

Valley of Flowers

Photographs from a trek to Valley of Flowers in Uttarakhand, India. Read my trip planning post for more details on itinerary and schedule.

Click on the photographs to see them in full size.

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The trek was organized by the Karnataka Mountaineering Association (KMA) and was lead by Vasumathy Srinivasan and Srivatsa. We were a team of 27 people, the most amazing thing about the team was that we had three generations of one family on the trek, with the grandfather being 92 years old and the father in his sixties. Although the grandfather took the assistance of pony and the dolly (three to four people carrying a chair fitted with long arms), his enduring spirit of exploration, fitness and alertness were an inspiration to us all.

I joined the team from Bangalore at Delhi and we then travelled by overnight train to Haridwar and then by bus to Govindghat.

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The roads to Govindghat follow the Alakananda river and are extremely treacherous to say the least. Landslides are very frequent and we had to wait on multiple instances for new landslides to be cleared up. The roads and well maintained (for the area), probably due to the army presence and their supply requirements.

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Valley of Flowers and Hemkund Sahib are both accessed from the town of Gangaria. There are no roads to Gangaria suitable for vehicles, one has to trek up 14 KMs from Govindghat to Gangaria before traveling to Valley of Flowers or Hemkund. Large number of ponies are available for hire for those to do not prefer to walk or for your luggage, one can also hire people to carry you up on a chair on a person’s back or on 3 to 4 people’s shoulders.

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The route up from Gangaria. Shortly after this comes the diversion to Valley of Flowers (3 KM to the valley) or to Hemkund Sahib (6 KMs to Hemkund).

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The entire landscape is dotted with streams carrying glacial melt water – extremely cool and tasty!

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This nice big waterfall can be seen once you walk up from Gangaria towards the diversion for Valley of Flowers or Hemkund.

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Walking up from Gangaria towards the Valley of Flowers.

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Initial part of the trek to Valley of Flowers is through this verdant forest with the sunlight creeping through the tall trees and sounds of insects and birds.

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Rivers and streams are a constant companion throughout the trek.

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We were blessed with a  glorious day sans rain on the trek to Valley of Flowers which from what I hear is not a very common occurrence during this time of the year.

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I have seen and photographed similar flowers while trekking in Tende, France. I’m no botanist, but I guess these are the same flowers.

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Guru pausing to take a photograph while I take one of him from above!

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The Valley was made popular by Frank Smythe who accidently chanced upon it while returning from a summit expedition to mount Kamet in 1931.

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In his book Kamet conquered, Frank S Smythe nick named the Bhyundar Valley as the Valley of Flowers.

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We met quite a few people during the initial stretch, but as we walked further in towards the glacier and river bed, we met fewer and fewer people. The trek to Hemkund on the other hand is choke full of pilgrims and ponies and mules and dhabas (tea stalls).

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The Valley is stunningly beautiful with the flowers and the green carpet crisscrossed by streams and overlooked by icy glacial mountain peaks and billowing clouds. The status of a protected natural park (and a UNESCO World Heritage Site) ensures that the pristine nature of the Valley is preserved. One cannot stay or camp inside and have to return the same day.

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The grave of Joan Margaret Legge in the Valley of Flowers. She was sent by Edinburgh’s Royal Botanical Garden to study the plants in the valley and fell to her death from the mountain slopes while collecting flowers. She was buried the valley as per her sisters wish and the monument erected by her sister has the following words:

“I will lift up mine eyes unto the hills

From whence cometh my help”

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On Friday, we started at 5 AM from Gangaria to Hemkund Sahib while the first light of day was breaking. Unfortunately, it developed into a very misty and rainy morning, so I could not get any photographs of Hemkund Sahib lake. The visibility as we reached the top was only about 20 to 30 feet and we were also not allowed to go around the lake to take a photo of the Gurudwara and Lakshman temple from the far side of the lake.

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I was able to capture sunrise on the peaks as we started the trek up. It is a 6 KM trek to Hemkund Sahib from where the route splits for Valley of Flowers and Hemkund. In these 6 kilometers, one goes from around 8000 ft of altitude to around 13,000 ft, so it is quite a steep ascend. For the final 2 KM stretch there are two options – the regular zig zag route that the ponies take or a steep flight of steps. Few of us took the steps and our overall climbing time from Gangaria to Hemkund was around 2 hours and 45 minutes.

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Blue Poppy on the way up to Hemkund Sahib. The owner of the hotel we stayed in at Gangaria mentioned that this flower was also present in Valley of Flowers earlier, but now could be found only on the heights of Hemkund Sahib. Another flower present in abundance on the way to Hemkund is the “Brahma Kamal”, however, I could not get a nice shot of any due to the mist and inaccessibility.

Once we reached Hemkund, we had tea and breakfast served for free by volunteers at the Gurudwara.

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Took the long route down from Hemkund and walked leisurely with Nethra, Guru and Himajith while discussing movies, music and books.

On Saturday, we visited Mana village which is the last Indian village along the Indo Tibetan border, it even had a “Last Tea Shop of India”. There is a significant army presence from the ITBP (Indo Tibetan Border Patrol) as this area is of strategic importance to India’s integrity.

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On Sunday, we visited Auli – a ski resort being constructed up amongst the clouds. We took the 4 KM ropeway up from Joshimath (250 KMs from Rishikesh) strung over 10 towers with a stupendous view of the surrounding mountains and valley.

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From the ropeway station at Auli, we trekked a few KMs up the mountain into a verdant forest and to a small temple located deep within the quite solitude of the forest.

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I love this picture!

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It’s ironic that most of my best flower pictures were taken outside of the Valley of Flowers!

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Prashant checking out his model car discovered on the beautiful forest trek up from Auli.

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A fallen tree gathers moss unlike a rolling stone …

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Mushrooms aplenty!

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The team sitting near the temple listing to Nethra’s beautiful voice, Nethra and her mom are both trained Karnatic classical vocalists.

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The Flowers of the Valley – young and old!

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Aerial view of the road to Auli from the ropeway cabin.

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Sunset at Birahi, we stayed in a resort next to the river.

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Morning mist embracing the treetops.

All photographs taken with Canon EOS 400D and Canon EF-S 17-85mm F/4-5.6 IS USM Lens, shot in RAW mode and processed in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 3.

Saturday, July 24, 2010

Lightroom 3 and Windows Live Writer

Thanks to Jayaram and Jagan, I have now added Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 3.0 as a part of my digital workflow. I went back and picked up one of my older photographs taken during a trip to the Nehru Zoo (see earlier post) in Hyderabad and processed it in Lightroom to see what I can make of it. This is the first time I’m using Lightroom although I did download the Beta long back. All the photos that I have posted to my blog previously were processed in Canon’s Digital Photo Professional software for EOS users, it was free and Canon did a great job of adding essential features over a period of time.

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The picture was originally imported from the camera using Canon EOS Utility (from now on I will probably switch to using LR3 directly), processed in Lightroom and then the border/frame/copyright added using FastStone Image Viewer. Although LR3 added copyright embedding feature, it does not allow me to create frames like these for embedding copyrights. LR/Mogrify 2 is an option, but I will stick to LR3 + FastStone for now.

It has been less than 12 hours since I installed Lightroom, so I have not had a chance to really explore all the capabilities – I’m sure that’s going to take me many months if at all I even manage to do it. The overall experience has been great so far with most of the usage being very intuitive and fitting in well with the existing Canon software based workflow that I had. But I do really wish Adobe supported HDR in some form in Lightroom itself rather than including that only in the (much) more expensive Photoshop. I’m sure HDR is going to become really mainstream, especially with many cameras building that capability in the camera itself and optimizing at the sensor level.

This is also a test post for me to work out the settings in Windows Live Writer (I’m using the latest Beta) to get the look that I want for my posts. The picture upload option in Blogger is a pain and one has to upload 5 photos at a time and they all go to the top of the page while editing after which I have to cut and paste and rearrange them. Windows Live Writer on the other hand allows one to type and insert pictures with absolute freedom. And it’s free! You can download it from here along with some other great Microsoft tools including a fully featured anti-virus and anti-malware solution (full disclosure – I work for Microsoft).

The only issue that I have found with Live Writer so far is that in the Preview mode it does not show the latest posts, I am not sure if it is by design or due to some compatibility issues with Blogger. This does not seem to impact the publishing of the blog post or the preview of the post I am creating (except for the post date being shown incorrectly), so I am fine with it.

Now the only thing remaining is to get a 23” LCD with a full HD resolution! Dell 2309W looks like a good option with a higher than HD resolution, height adjustment, 2 MP webcam, main negative being that it uses TN instead of an IPS LCD panel and the price. Availability and price seems to be an issue for any LCD above 21.5” in India.

Upcoming Trek – Valley of Flowers

<this is the first post I’m creating using Windows Live Writer – get it as a part of Windows Live Essentials here>

I’ll be leaving 26th July for a 9 day trek to the Valley of Flowers National Park in Uttarakhand on the organized by the Karnataka Mountaineering Association (KMA). This high altitude Himalayan valley is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and renowned for its flora and fauna, including many endangered ones. The Valley of Flowers was declared a National Park in 1982 and is located in Uttarakhand in the upper reaches of Gharwal on the Zanskar range of Himalayas.

The Valley of Flowers was “re”-discovered by a British mountaineer (Frank S Smythe) in 1931 by accident when he lost his way while returning from a successful expedition to Mt Kamet, he subsequently wrote a book on it titled “Valley of Flowers”. The park is open only in summer during the months between June and October, and is covered by heavy snow for the rest of the year.

We will also be visiting Hemkund Sahib (Lake of Ice) where the high altitude lake Hemkund is located at 4329m. This is an important pilgrimage center for Hindus (Sri Lakshmi Mandir) and for Sikhs (Gurudwara Hemkund Sahib).

Itinerary

Day Date Program
1 26 July 2010 Arrive at Delhi and take Mussouri Express to Haridwar
2 27 July 2010 Arrive at Haridwar and onward to Joshimath by bus
3 28 July 2010 Joshimath to GovindGhat by bus and trek to Gangaria (3048m)
4 29 July 2010 Trek from Gangaria to Valley of Flowers (3962m) and back
5 30 July 2010 Trek from Gangaria to Hemkund Sahib (4329m) and back
6 31 July 2010 Trek from Gangaria to GovindGhat and onward to Badrinath by bus
7 1 August 2010 Badrinath to Auli and onward to Birahi by bus
8 2 August 2010 Birahi to Rishikesh by bus and catch train to Delhi
9 3 August 2010 Arrive at Delhi

Map

Map courtesy moreAdventures.

Links

Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Kodaikanal, Tamil Nadu

Photographs from a trip to Kodaikanal, in Tamil Nadu, India.

Madurai is closest airport to Kodaikanal at 135 kilometers, however I traveled via Coimbatore that is around 170 kilometers from Kodaikanal since there were no direct flights from Hyderabad to Madurai. There are very few buses that ply from Coimbatore directly to Kodai, in fact, I believe there is only one that leaves from Ukkadam bus stand at 10 AM in the morning. However, there are plenty of buses from Coimbatore (from Ukkadam bus stand, you can get a pre-paid taxi from Airport to Ukkadam for Rs 250) to town of Palani (every 10 minutes or so), and from Palani there are hourly buses during the day to Kodai. It takes around 2.5 hours from Coimbatore to Palani and another 3 hours from Palani to Koadi uphill via the winding Ghat road. Note that these are local buses that ply between towns and will be quite crowded, plus unless you can speak a bit of the local language (Tamil), it would be hard to identify the right bus to get on to. On the plus side, they are quite cheap – on an average it would cost you Rs 30 (less than $1) for each segment of the journey.







Coaker’s Walk is a beautiful 1 KM stretch of pathway along the side of Mount Nebo and offers a great view of the valley.


Pillar rock can be reached by an 8 KM drive from the Kodai bus stand, reminds me of the “Hanging Mountains” from Avatar.


“Green” windows of the Woody’s restaurant in Woodlands Resort, Kodaikanal.






Bryant Park is a very well maintained botanical garden located around half a kilometer from the Kodai bus stand.





Sunday, March 28, 2010

Nehru Zoological Park - Hyderabad



A bit of relaxation in the park

Not on talking terms

White Tiger

Emu caught on a bad hair day

Tigers might be history soon



The eternal struggle of Life

Photographs taken at Nehru Zoological Park in Hyderabad with Canon EOS 400D and Canon EF 70-200mm F/4 L IS USM Lens combined with Tamron 1.4X TC. I did not get to go on the safari this time, all shots are from the regular circuit around the zoo.

There are less the 1500 tigers left in the wild in India. White tigers are not separate sub-species of the tiger, but ones with a regressive gene leading to pale colouration (not albinos).

Sunday, March 07, 2010

Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Photo of the Day

The Birds

Was looking at the cloud covered peaks when the birds flew out of nowhere, had just enough time to raise the camera and fire off one quick shot. Reminds me of the Hitchcock movie.

Canon EOS 400D, exposure of 1/125s @ F8, ISO 400. Shot in Bhutan.

Monday, November 16, 2009

Photo of the Day

Fields

Shot in Bhutan with Canon EOS 400D and Canon EF-S 17-85mm F/4-5.6 IS USM Lens. Exposure of 1/160s @ F8, ISO 400.

Saturday, November 07, 2009

Photo of the Day

Mushroom

Shot while on trek in Bhutan. Canon EOS 400D with Tamron 28-200mm XR lens at 200m. Exposure of 1/60s @ F/5.6, ISO 400.